[K-TRAVEL (17)] Seoul Bukaksan - Autumn: The Pinnacle of a Seoul Trip... The Hidden Beauty of Red Maples and the Hanyang Fortress Walls

*This content was translated by AI.View Original

As the number of travelers from around the world exploring various parts of Korea has surged within the flow of K-Hallyu, K-Travel is establishing itself as a new trend. StarNews introduces travel destinations where one can fully experience the unique charm and appeal of Korea without the heavy crowds. You can gain your own Korean-style charm and memories.

[K-TRAVEL ⑰] Seoul Bukaksan

Seoul is a peculiar city. If you look up in the middle of the densely packed downtown forest of buildings, a massive rocky mountain stands surrounding it like a folding screen, and along its ridge, centuries-old fortress walls flow smoothly like the back of a snake. It is hard to find anywhere in the world where such a vast metropolis, majestic nature, and deep history are seamlessly intertwined.

Among them, Bukaksan (Baekaksan) has long been Seoul's "forbidden garden." After the so-called "121 Incident (Kim Shin-jo Incident)" in 1968, access to this mountain by the general public was strictly controlled, and for more than half a century, it remained isolated like a giant island within the city. However, starting with the opening of the northern side in 2020, and following the full opening of the southern side behind Cheong Wa Dae in 2022, it has finally revealed its complete form before us.

For a long period of 52 years, the forests of Bukaksan, untouched by human footsteps, were in themselves a "forest of secrets." In mid-November, as autumn deepens, walk the fully opened course of Bukaksan, dyed in five-colored maples, and appreciate the overwhelming autumn beauty created by the interplay of past and present, nature and history. For foreign tourists who enjoy walking and wish to capture the true charm of Korea through their camera lenses, this path will be the most perfect hiking course and photography spot available in Seoul.

Where History and Autumn Begin: Starting at Changi-mun

The starting point for the Bukaksan hike is Changi-mun (Changui Gate), located in Buam-dong. It is one of the four small gates of the Hanyang Fortress walls and is also the gate that best preserves its appearance from the Joseon Dynasty. This place is commonly known by the nickname "Jaha-mun," as it was loved by literati since ancient times for its beautiful plum blossoms in spring and the surrounding valleys and mountainsides dyed in autumn foliage.

Entering inside Changi-mun, the ridge of Bukaksan, dyed red, enters like a picture in a frame through the fortress gate arch (Hongye Gate) built with solid granite. Using the frame-within-a-frame effect, if you place a foreign friend inside the gate and photograph them walking toward the autumn scenery outside the gate, you can capture a dramatic snapshot that feels like a time slip to the Joseon Dynasty.

The formal mountain trek begins at the Changi-mun information center. In the past, one had to present identification and receive a tag to wear around the neck to pass through here, but now entry and exit are free without any separate procedures. The barbed wire and guard posts that were once traces of strict control have now melted into a historical landscape, offering both a strange tension and a sense of liberation simultaneously.

Endless Stairs Toward 'Baekak Ridge': A Panorama Unfolds When Breath Reaches the Throat

The early part of the Changi-mun course is characterized by steep stone steps so sharp they are called "Kkaltak Pass." The stairs are built following the slope of the fortress walls, causing thighs to tighten and breath to quicken. Although the distance from the Changi-mun information center to Baekak Ridge is short at 0.7 to 0.8 km, one must climb almost vertically to gain nearly 200 meters in elevation, with over 1,400 steps, making it somewhat challenging even for young people to climb all at once. However, taking a brief rest at the Dolphin Rest Area and Baekam Rest Area along the way allows one to enjoy the refreshing feeling of cooling sweat in the wind.

Looking back occasionally while climbing the stairs reveals the massive rock cliffs of Inwangsan across the way and the quaint residential area of Buam-dong, blending with autumn foliage to offer new scenic angles as the elevation changes. Additionally, the pine trees extending alongside the stairs are premium pines hundreds of years old, making their appreciation a unique charm of the mountain trek.

Moving briskly to arrive at Baekak Ridge (342m), the summit of Bukaksan, the full view of the Seoul cityscape finally bursts open. Behind the large rock marking the summit, Gyeongbokgung Palace, Sejong University, and even Namsan NSeoul Tower in the distance line up in a straight axis, overlooking the core of Seoul. Was this the sense of grandeur that the kings of Joseon must have felt when they climbed to this place behind the palace to gaze at the capital?

The '1·21 Incident Pine' Bearing the Scars of History and the Quiet Fortress Wall Path

The ridge path connecting Baekak Ridge to Cheongundae is relatively gentle, making it pleasant for walking while fully savoring the autumn atmosphere. About halfway along this path stands a single pine tree that particularly captures people's attention. It is the "1·21 Incident Pine."

This was the site of fierce combat between military and police forces when North Korean armed commandos attempted to raid Cheong Wa Dae in 1968. Fifteen bullet marks from that time remain clearly on the trunk of the pine tree, with each mark assigned a red number. Half a century later, although the pine tree says nothing, it visually conveys the divided history of Korea and the preciousness of peace strongly through its contrast with the surrounding red autumn foliage. For foreigners, it is also a moment to feel the regrettable reality of South Korea, divided between North and South.

Standing at "Cheongundae (293m)" after passing the pine tree, one can beautifully capture the Hanyang Fortress walls flowing down the mountain in soft curves. The autumn sunlight shining on the long stone wall of the fortress, surrounded by red maple trees, is another highlight of the Hanyang Fortress hike.

Into the 'Forest of Secrets': A Quiet Descent from Sukjeong-mun to Samcheong-dong

The path heading from Cheongundae to Sukjeong-mun (Sukjeong Gate), the northeast gate of the fortress, is the "Forest of Secrets" section, which is the highlight of this course. An ecosystem close to a primeval forest has been preserved here because it has been untouched by human hands for 50 years. Unlike famous maple spots with artificially cultivated gardens, the entire forest burns with autumn colors in its rough and lush natural state, creating an illusion of having entered deep into the mountains.

Sukjeong-mun is the north gate that contrasts with Sungnyemun (Namdaemun), the south gate of the Hanyang Fortress walls. Unlike other gates with heavy foot traffic, it is a mysterious gate that was usually kept closed to control the energy of "Yin" according to the theory of Yin and Yang and the Five Elements. Passing through this quiet gate, one begins the descent toward Samcheong-dong.

The descent from Sukjeong-mun, passing Beophheungsa Site, down to Samcheong Park is quiet and peaceful, unlike the heavy breathing on the uphill path. It is filled only with the sound of trickling stream water and the rustling of stepping on fallen leaves. This section is best for capturing an emotional mood by slowing down the camera's shutter speed to capture maple leaves falling in the wind or a small path covered in fallen leaves.

The Newly Opened Southwest Side Stranger of Bukaksan

Last October, another special path opened on Bukaksan. It is the 1.32 km section of the southwest-side trail in the Cheongun-dong direction. The last unopened section of Bukaksan, where access by the general public had been restricted for about 59 years since the 1st·21 Incident in 1968, has returned to citizens. Following the opening of the northern trail in 2020 and the southeast-side trail in 2022, with the opening of this southwest section, Bukaksan has finally welcomed citizens in its complete form.

By walking directly on the mountainside where access by the general public had been restricted for a long time, one can experience a different forest atmosphere and mountain terrain from the familiar Bukaksan. Especially in autumn, sunlight filtering through the forest and the colors of the leaves blend together to offer a deeper natural landscape.

The new southwest-side trail is about 1.32 km long and can be walked in connection with existing trails, centered on the section connecting Dolphin Rest Area to Manse-dong Bang Intersection. While using the stairs to Baekak Ridge may leave one out of breath and tired, using the southwest-side trail that detours through the forest path allows for a relatively easier ascent to Baekak Ridge.

The fully opened course of Bukaksan is a unique path in the middle of Seoul where one can simultaneously enjoy "the best aerobic exercise" and "overwhelming Instagrammable visuals." The recommended route is Changi-mun Information Center - Baekak Ridge (Summit) - 1·21 Incident Pine - Cheongundae - Sukjeong-mun - Samcheong Park - Samcheong-dong Cafe Street. The total distance is approximately 4.5 km, and the estimated time required is about 3 hours.

Since there are many stairs and stone paths, non-slip hiking boots or trail running shoes are essential. As one moves between shaded forests and windy ridges, it is advisable to bring a light windbreaker for temperature regulation.

After fully descending to Samcheong Park, one naturally connects to Samcheong-dong Cafe Street, the most emotional neighborhood in Seoul. It is time to introduce foreign hikers, who have sweated from the rough trek and whose legs have become firm, to Korea's unique "post-hike celebration culture." With various distinctive cafes, food, and sights such as galleries, both eyes and mouths are delighted. However, note that it gets very crowded on weekends with many Korean citizens as well as foreign tourists visiting.

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*This content was translated by AI.View Original